Le Rech, Paris France

Le Rech: A Classic French Bistro
When I visit Paris it is a humbling experience. I have studied the cuisine of this city and country my entire adult life in order to hone my craft and better my skills. When one is in Paris, arguably the greatest food city in the entire world, for one weekend, you must make wise choices in regards to where you dine. When you have only three days in Paris, it is a double-edged sword to make your first meal in the city at a restaurant owned and ran by Michelin three star Chef and restaurateur, Alain Ducasse. It is a wonderful experience but at the same time you know that nothing else you eat while on your trip will compare. With twenty-one restaurants and counting, Chef Ducasse is a force to be reckoned with in the world of fine dining.
Tommy, Elizabeth, and I got off the train from Brussels, dropped our bags, stopped in at Printemps, for some light shopping, and headed for a lunch that I have no equal for in my memory. Le Rech is a classic French bistro opened in the style of 1920’s Paris. The Art Deco atmosphere is complimented by the delicate approach to the cuisine that Chef Ducasse and his staff employ. The offerings here are almost all seafood, save a few beef and veal offerings. We opted for the three course pre-fixe lunch and were not disappointed.
The menu was as follows:
Soupe glacee de concombre au rouget
Ou
Fillet de haddock marine au citron, salade d’herbes

Julienne de linge pochee, asperges blanches et sabayon citron
Ou
Joues de lotted snackees aux mousserons et cresson de fontaine

Soupe et sorbet de fraises gariguettes
Ou
Pain perdu Pastis d’Amelie, glace caramel au buerre sale

For the first course we all ordered the marinated haddock in citrus with the herb salad. While cold cucumber soup would have fit the 80 degree the delicate flavor of the marinade and the citrus cream accompanying the salad sounded too good to pass up. This fish was sublime. The citrus was just enough, not so much that it over powered, as is often the case in something like ceviche. The flavor of the haddock still shined in this dish. What I found most interesting about the first course was the plating. The fish was served in a bowl that was no doubt specifically designed for this dish as nothing else but the battonet of haddock would fit in the dish. The accompaniments were served on another plate, which allowed you to mix and match until you found that perfect bite. Balance between the fish, the greens, and the citrus cream was easy. The perfect piece of toasted bread was there to provide some crunch and texture that was much needed.
For the main course we were more diverse. I ordered the monkfish with mushrooms in a butter sauce while Tommy and Elizabeth ordered the poached mullett with a citrus sabayon and white asparagus. Both of the entrees were exceptional and given the hot day very delicate while still being filling. There is nothing worse on a hot day to sit down to a meal that stuffs you and leaves you lethargic. My dish was all about the seasoning. With only three ingredients on the plate it showed how the kitchen staff could transform such simple food into something extraordinary. When you start with the best ingredients available and apply classic technique with absolute precision it is hard for it not to turn out wonderfully. The other entrée was also superbly done. The fish poached till just done, left it flaky but not dry and the sabayon, which is a sauce usually, reserved for dessert was the star here. An emulsion sauce similar to hollandaise, this sauce had the perfect amount of citrus to butter to egg. The sauce was in complete balance with the fish and asparagus. It is of note that neither of the entrees was served with a starch of any kind, which I attribute, again, to the warm weather.
The last out of the kitchen was our dessert course. Elizabeth ordered the strawberry soup with fresh strawberries and strawberry sorbet. This was like the best fresh strawberry you’ve ever had but amplified by ten. Tommy and I both ordered the French toast with caramel ice cream. This was amazing; there are no other words for it. The toast was encased in a glaze, which had a slight crunch to it but made the texture otherworldly, while the inside was soft and rich. The ice cream was perhaps the greatest ice cream I’ve ever tasted. It was rich velvety in texture and had the most intense caramel flavor you can imagine.
This lunch was one for the record books, the setting, the company, the service, and of course the food made it a highlight of the trip for me so far and one of my favorite meals of all time. Here’s the Alain Ducasse, cheers Le Rech!